So as most people reading this already know, Alabama has a law that limits the alcohol content of beer sold here to 6% ABV. Thus Free The Hops. All the history and details there.
In addition to keeping out 100% of all Trappiste Ales, Barleywines, Imperial Stouts, Double IPAs, and other naturally high gravity craft brews, it also puts a serious drag on our access to seasonals. One of my favorites traits of the world of craft beer is seasonal brews that are typically only available for two or three months of the year, and which are specifically suited to the weather. Spring tends to see a lot of Irish Reds for St. Patrick’s Day, summer sees a lot of very light bodied beers like wheat beers, golden ales, and Kolsches. But the best seasons for beer are fall and winter.
Falls brings us pumpkin beer and Oktoberfests, while winter is the crown jewel of beer seasons, bringing a huge variety of winter warmers. There are no official requirements to qualify a beer as a winter warmer. Rather it is a label commonly applied by brewers to their winter seasonal, which may be one of many possible styles. Very common characteristics are a focus on malt over hops, use of spices, and an above average alcohol content (usually more than 6% ABV).
That last bit is what kills us here in Alabama. Famous winter seasonals include Sierra Nevada Celebration Ale (unusual in that it’s a hoppy IPA instead of a malty giant), Avery Old Jubilation, Great Divide Hibernation Ale, and here in the Southeast, Sweetwater Festive Ale. But all of these world class beers are illegal in this state because of the 6% law. Thus turning the most exciting beer season of the year into something much more tame.
Thankfully, a few great winter seasonals do make it into our cursed state. My favorite by far is Anchor Brewing’s “Our Special Ale.” The recipe changes from year to year, but it’s always dark, richly malty, and perfectly spiced. It’s easy to over-spice a beer, and many brewers do just that. With spices, less is more. You want to get subtle sense of spiciness, but no individual spice flavors should jump out at you. The worst spiced beers taste like cinnamon tea or clove explosions. Another brewer that does it right is the Boston Beer Company. Their Sam Adams Winter Lager and Old Fezziwig are always welcome additions to my fridge this time of year. Another above average offering is Spanish Peaks Winter Cheer, which is thick with caramel maltiness though it features no spices. And Brooklyn has a nice Scottish style winter ale.
Unfortunately, a few other winter seasonals that reach this state are not worth the money. Harpoon’s Winter Warmer has that blunt and crude over-spicing I cautioned against earlier. Leinenkugel’s Fireside Nut Brown is cloying and tastes artificial in my opinion. And Blue Moon Full Moon (from Molson Coors) claims to be a Belgian style ale, but it lacks any semblance of the flavor characteristics that are most distinctive of Belgian yeasts. I would have a higher opinion of it if it didn’t claim to be something it is not. It’s a decent amber ale in its own right; a Belgian style winter seasonal it is not.
Hopefully you enjoyed the influx of Oktoberfest style beers this year, many of which hit Alabama. Oddly, we get more Oktoberfests than any other style of seasonal. Left Hand, Flying Dog, Sam Adams, Saranac, Paulaner, Spaten, Leinenkugel, Harpoon, Beck’s, and maybe a couple others all got in on the Ofest action in AL this year. Left Hand was the best of the bunch.
Word on the street is that Anchor’s Our Special Ale hits stores in Birmingham this week. Go forth and imbibe.
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