WHERE ARE THE MUSHROOMS?!
The meal was another kit dealie. Passable. It really needed mushrooms, and we didn’t have any on hand (and the box didn’t suggest adding them, gasp). And the flavor needed a little more punch. It was extremely mild. But decent.
So. Chicken Marsala. That’s made with wine (yes, there’s actually a packet of marsala cooking wine in the kit). “But Danner!” you say. “Surely you need to pair wine with an Italian dish made with wine.” “Never!” I say. I’m pretty obnoxious in my unwavering belief in the superiority of beer over wine in every way imaginable. I harbor deep-seated resentments over wine’s undeserved status as the high-class beverage of choice in fine restaurants. And I’m quite bitter that I’ve never been to an Italian restaurant with a decent beer selection, when Italian food is my favorite style of food.
I’ve been holding onto this Le Merle for quite a while now, waiting to spring it upon an unsuspecting Italian dish. I decided tonight was the night to crack it open. I actually didn’t even realize when I bought it that it was brewed by North Coast. I just saw the word “saison” on the label and picked it up without much thought. I’m constantly in search of great saisons. I try them all, hoping one day to find another brewery that “gets it” the way Fantome gets it.
I noticed the North Coast brand tonight before I popped the cork, and I knew instantly it would be in the Dupont ballpark of saisons, not the Fantome ballpark, before I even opened the bottle. North Coast is a great brewery (their Red Seal is one of my all-time faves), but I just knew they’d go for something similar to Saison Dupont and Hennepin. And I was right.
It matters not. I felt like either type of saison would work with chicken marsala. And Le Merle didn’t prove me wrong. It is very similar to a Belgian strong golden ale, with plenty of fruity esters and some nice spicy phenols from the yeast. Really well done as non-Fantome Belgian beers go. Plenty in common with some dry white wines, only better.
It paired perfectly with chicken marsala. I can’t imagine having to suffer through some boring grape juice instead of a good beer here. Not that you’ll ever find a good saison or Belgian pale ale in an Italian restaurant, but if God himself intervenes and places one on an Italian beer list somewhere, spring for it. Superb.
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